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Guru Hargobind's Attire
Just prior to sitting for the first time on the Akal Takht [the Immortal Throne], Guru Hargobind is described beautifully by the Great Poet Santokh Singh in very specific detail, which matches some fresco art of old depicting the Guru.
ਉਦੈ ਭਯੋ ਦਿਨਕਰ ਜਿਸ ਕਾਲੇ । ਪਹਿਰਯੋ ਜਾਮਾ ਜਿਸ ਗਨ ਪਾਲੇ । ਛਬਿ ਉਸਨੀਕ ਸੀਸ ਪਰ ਧਾਰੀ । ਜਿਗਾ ਬਧੀ ਊਪਰਿ ਦੁਤਿ ਕਾਰੀ ।੬।
When the sun rose Guru Hargobind got dressed, wearing a Jama [Persian tunic] with many pleats, on his head he adorned a beautiful turban, placing on top of it an exquisite jigha [gem turban ornament].
ਕਲਗੀ ਮੁਕਤਾ ਗੁਛ ਉਜਾਲਾ । ਮੁਖ ਮੰਡਲ ਪਰ ਕੁੰਡਲ ਝਾਲਾ । ਮਾਲ ਬਿਸਾਲ ਸੁਢਾਲ ਜਿ ਮੁਕਤਾ। ਸਬਜੇ ਹੀਰਨਿ ਚਾਰੁ ਸੁ ਯੁਕਤਾ ।੭।
A kalgi [plume] with a bushel of pearls glistened, dangling around His face He wore earrings, around His neck He wore a necklace of large pearls, interlaced with emerald gems and beautiful diamonds.
ਨਵ ਰਤਨੇ ਪਹਿਰਤਿ ਛਬਿ ਪਾਏ । ਜਨੁ ਨਵ ਗ੍ਰਹ ਤਿਸ ਕੇ ਮਿਸ ਆਏ । ਅੰਗਦ ਸੁੰਦਰ ਸੋਭਤਿ ਜਾਹਿਰ । ਜਬਰ ਜੇਬ ਜਿਨ ਜਰੇ ਜਵਾਹਰ ।੮।
Adorning the nine beautiful gems on His arm [see note], it appeared as if the nine celestial Gods [Navgrah] were there to serve the Guru, who with every limb looked beautiful and glorious, wearing the most marvelous of jewels.
ਕੰਕਨ ਕੰਚਨ ਕੇ ਖਚਿ ਹੀਰੇ । ਛਾਪ ਛਲਾਯਨਿ ਛਬਿ ਗੰਭੀਰੇ । ਇਮ ਸਤਿਗੁਰੁ ਸੋਭਤਿ ਸੁਭ ਅੰਗ । ਬਸਤ੍ਰ ਬਿਭੂਖਨ ਉੱਤਮ ਸੰਗ ।੯।
Around His wrists He wore gold bracelets embedded with diamonds, on His fingers the Guru wore stunning large rings. In this way every limb of Guru Hargobind looked stunning, wearing the most striking clothes and jewelry.
Gurpratap Suraj Prakash Granth (1843), author: the Great Poet Santokh Singh
Raas 4, Chapter 43
Note: The nine jewels [navratan] were traditionally associated with the nine celestial gods [navgrah]:
1) Ruby for the Sun [Surya]
2) Pearl for the Moon [Chandra]
3) Red coral for Mars [Maheya]
4) Emerald for Mercury [Budha]
5) Yellow Sapphire for Jupiter [Brhaspati]
6) Diamond for Venus [Shukra]
7) Blue sapphire for Saturn [Shani]
8) Hessonite for the Ascending Moon [Rahu]
9) Cat's eye for the Descending Moon [Ketu]